Oops I dyed it again

Yeah, I dyed another saddle AND put a Britney Spears earworm in your head at the same time. It’s called balance, y’all.

But it’s a good thing I don’t have a lot of extra money and time, or I would probably make a little business out of buying up faded, ugly-colored saddles, giving them makeovers, and re-selling them. I just LOVE it. This is now the 4th saddle I’ve dyed and it’s a little bit addicting.

Spoiler Alert

Anyway, as I mentioned a couple weeks ago, Presto got his own saddle – a Mark Todd Charisma monoflap. Henry’s back is more curvy and Presto’s back is more straight, so Henry’s Devoucoux just was not going to work for Presto long-term or as he started getting ridden more frequently. I was able to find the Mark Todd for cheap on a UK facebook group (although the seller was actually in Spain) that looked promising fit-wise, even if it was a bit ugly. I was confident that I could make it look better, so best case scenario it would fit Presto and I could make it pretty and have a decent saddle for him at least for a little while until he grows out of it, or worst case scenario it wouldn’t fit Presto and I could fix it up and re-sell it for a small profit. Seemed like a worthwhile gamble. I ordered my dye supplies the same day the saddle left Spain (and naturally, the saddle got here first).

Luckily it fits him quite well. It’s a massive improvement over Henry’s saddle, for sure. He may grow out of the width before the next year is out, unless he decides to pop a massive wither (which is entirely possible) but we’ll see. The tree is sound, the billets are in decent shape, and there are no tears or anything like that. But it definitely looked… rough.


It was very thirsty and had this weird tricolor thing going on. The skirt area was an awful orange, the seat was more reddish, and the flaps were a proper brown, with a strip of orange at the bottom. There’s nothing flattering about that color scheme. It was actually quite a nice little saddle, just stuck in a really ugly wrapping that was hard to see past. Especially when the horse it’s going on is dark bay (well, when he’s not super sunbleached, anyway)… red or orange tones really stand out and not in a good way.

For my dye I decided to go with a deep chocolate brown, about as dark as you can go without being black. Partly because I like that color a lot, and partly because I wanted the saddle to be all one tone when I was done, which meant I needed to match the darkest part of the saddle, which was the color under where the stirrup leathers lay. You can darken a saddle, but you can’t really lighten one, so if you want a super even finish you have to match the darkest part.

I also decided to try out a different finish this time. In the past I’ve used Resolene or Tan-Kote or both, and they were fine and did the job, but I didn’t LOVE them. I’ve been lurking on leatherworking groups for a while now and based off of what I’ve learned I really wanted to try a wax-based finish this time instead, so I ordered one that got a lot of good reviews. For the dye I stuck with the one I’ve always used, Fiebing’s, because it’s always worked really well.

This time I stripped the saddle with straight acetone instead of buying deglazer, since I already had acetone in my house (hello nail polish remover) and didn’t want to spend another $10 on deglazer which is basically the same thing. It required maybe a little more elbow grease to get the top finish totally removed with the acetone, but in the end it worked out just the same.

After the first pass with the deglazer I had missed some spots, especially near the stitching and seams. Here I’m pointing to a spot I missed, and you can easily see how the fully deglazed leather is much more dull and flat-looking than this shiny spot.

Once I was satisfied that it was properly deglazed, I let it sit for a while and then prepared my dye and supplies – ie a glass bowl, a foam brush, a couple rags, and the dye itself. I like to dye it in sections, so I started at the skirt, then did the knee pad, then the flap, then the panels, then the underside of the flaps, and ended with the seat. That’s the part where any imperfections will be most obvious.

I figured I would show what it looks like when you first put the dye on and it looks like a weird streaky oil slick. Don’t panic, it’s just residue and it buffs right off.

Once it was all evenly painted, I got to buffing with a microfiber rag. A lot of people use sheepswool for that part, but microfiber is what I had and what I’ve always used, so it works fine for me. I buffed and I buffed and I buffed and I buffed, until it felt like my damn arm was going to fall off. But even after just one coat and some buffing, it already looked way better.

I left it to dry overnight, then came at it the next morning with a really light second coat and a lot more buffing. Once you’re done putting the dye on, you need to keep buffing until no more dye is coming off on your rag – that’s the best way to prevent dye leech and staining your breeches or saddle pads. So I would buff it for a while, go back inside, then come back out and buff it some more. Once I thought nothing else was coming off, I gave it the ol’ white paper towel test – rubbing the seat for 10 or so seconds with a paper towel – and yay, no dye transfer. It was ready for the next step: the finish.

*I will add a caveat here and say that before you think you’re finished with the dye coats, make sure to check the saddle thoroughly in natural light. It much easier to see any spots you missed or areas that might be uneven.

if that’s not satisfying I dunno what is

I was kind of excited to try the new wax finish. It was a little different from what I expected… I was thinking it would be more the consistency of, well… wax, but it was liquid. Really liquid. I ended up going for same pour-in-bowl-then-paint-on technique that I do with dye. I started just on one flap to test it out, putting it on, letting it dry for 5 minutes, and then buffing (which is exactly what the directions say to do).

I’m not sure if maybe my dye coat was just still too fresh or what, but the more I buffed, the more it started to lift my color and make it uneven. I stopped as soon as I saw a patch that was now a shade lighter than the rest. Minor crisis, but ok… still recoverable at this point. I deglazed the area to remove the leather finish I had just applied, put more dye on the spot to even it back out, and decided to change my approach. Originally I had the idea of making my own finish by mixing beeswax and oil, before I decided to just try the Bee Natural. You know what’s pretty much already beeswax and oil? Most of the german lederbalsams. A nice thick, wax-heavy one like Passier especially. I already had some at home, so once my fixed spot was buffed and dry, I started the finish again but this time using the lederbalsam. And guys, I think I’ve found The Way.

It worked amazingly well. It did require a lot of lederbalsam… like I globbed that stuff on there and buffed it with a rag, several times over. Three generous coats in all. The saddle absolutely drank it up and asked for more. The oil gave it some moisture and the wax gave it some shine but also provided the leather with a nice grip, ending up similar to how the french saddles feel – soft but grippy. The difference in the leather from start to finish is pretty remarkable. When I was done I gave it the white paper towel test again and there was still no dye transfer, so I’m happy with that. Will the waxy top coat prevent any and all dye leech? No. If it gets wet, there could be a little bit (as with most saddles). Obviously lederbalsam is not a sealant. But it does allow for conditioners or oil to still penetrate the leather, which for saddles I think this is the much better choice. Our minor crisis worked out fine in the end.

And now that I’ve ridden in the saddle some, I have to say I’m mega impressed with it. It has a very similar feel to my Devoucoux (which thank god, because my whole fear with an English-made saddle is how they tend to ride and feel very different from the French ones) with a similar balance point and shape. Considering the Mark Todd was 1/4 of what I paid for the Devoucoux (which was a used, cheap, lucky find in and of itself, all things considered) it’s a pretty high compliment in my book. The only slight bummer is that it’s a 17.5, and I really always need an 18 (my Dev is an 18 with an extra forward flap), but I figured it should be workable and it is. My knee is definitely to the edge of the flap, but not quite over it. Presto seems to like it too… no more rocking, and no more half pad that needs to be shimmed 6 ways to Sunday. Now he can wear just his Mattes full pad, which I ordered for him months ago and never could use until now.

Now it just needs its own stirrup leathers so I can easily swap my Free Jump irons back and forth without having to deal with swapping the leathers between Presto’s saddle and Henry’s jump saddle. I’m kind of sad that it’s over so soon though… I want to dye more things. It’s fun. Like a makeover but way better because it’s a saddle and not a human.

24 thoughts on “Oops I dyed it again

  1. You know, it may be a Mark Todd, but I’d bet dollars to donuts it was actually made by Equipe in Italy. It is through a partnership with Equipe LaBelle and Peter Menet that Amerigo and Vega saddles, and this looks SO much like and Amerigo or Equipe. Same manufacturer for Cobra and a couple other brands, too. That said… there’s a decent chance your saddle also has a tree that can be adjusted as Presto gets wider (assuming the general shap still works for him, of course).


  2. That turned out incredibly well!! I’m super-impressed. Something I may consider with my older saddle one of these days, as it’s Oakbark and not the fashionable brown. Was a bit tricky to find a matching bridle last year!

    Are you going to try using that Bee Naturals stuff again or on anything else? Is it meant for regular leather care? Just wondering since it seems like a good product, just maybe not for recently-dyed items. I’m a fan of taking very good care of my leather (my saddle is 20 years old but doesn’t look it) so I’m always interested in products I haven’t heard of before.

    PS. I loooooove that pad… drool… I’ve been using a regular pad with a half-pad and this would be easier and look SO nice!


    1. I hate oakbark too. 😂 The bee natural stuff had rave reviews so maybe I’ll try it again later or on something else, I dunno. I love what the lederbalsam did so I think I’ll be sticking to that for fresh dye jobs in the future.


  3. Even though my last (and only) attempt to dye a saddle was a major failure, these posts make me want to find random ratty saddles just to try again. ….4 months old is too young to start saddle hunting for a horse, right?


  4. i’ve used your dying methods (from the dressage saddle) to do a couple pairs of tall boots with pretty great results so I’m glad you did something brown! I do think the brown is more fiddly than the black because you can see more of the leather, but picking a very dark brown helps.


  5. I am so jealous, I fully intended to redye the Kentaur I bought last year but trying to find the leather dye stuff you recommended in Australia was almost IMPOSSIBLE and I am so not brave enough to try other things.

    I ended up selling the saddle to a friend because it didn’t suit anyway, but I sold it to a friend and I still really want to redye it because it would be so satisfying.

    Maybe I should hunt around the for the dye things again…


  6. so glad you got it looking better and it works okay. And stirrup leathers you say? Is that a dig at me. Let me get thru this weekend (please without falling off) and I will order some for me 🙂 HA


  7. It looks beautiful! I’m so glad the saddle worked out so well for you and Presto! I, too, just had to get new leathers for the new to me saddle. I had an extra pair, but they are wider than I like and I hate them. So ya know. New ones en route. I could probably send you the wider ones if you want, they’re 1″ so not actually wide. They’re a little light though… you’d need to dye them!


  8. I’m curious if the tan-kote gave you the same soft/sticky feel as the lederbalsm? Was it similar in any way? Would you recommend just using tan-kote on an older prestige dressage saddle, or going with just the lederbaslm?


      1. Hi Amanda,
        I’ve been trying to decide what to do with my saddle. I clean it every ride with stubben soap and put conditioner on. However I’ve noticed it seems to be getting “deglazed” on the seat! It’s happening with my 2yo Bruno saddle as well! I was thinking to use deglazer on the entire seat, oil it until it won’t take any more oil, then use tan-kote and resolene.
        But now I’m doubting..
        I don’t want to dye the seat/saddle. Just reseal it. What would you recommend?
        Is there a way to attach a pic of the saddle that’s really bad?


  9. My 2015 devoucoux chiberta, that I got used, is bleeding a significant amount of die! It is horrible. I’m torn on what to try after reading this though. I was thinking about the Bee Natural stuff since I wasn’t in love with Resolene on the last saddle I died. In addition to the bleeding die It was heavily oiled at one point… Any Suggestions? I’m desperate at this point lol.


    1. I would buff the hell out of it for a while with a microfiber cloth to remove any excess oil/dye and then put a few healthy coats of a wax-based conditioner on. The french saddles do tend to bleed a lot no matter what, but frequent wax-based conditioning helps a bit.


  10. Amanda, I have a couple questions for you! I have a black dressage and a brown jump saddle I want to do this to. I was going to see if I could pay someone to do it but reading your 2 blogs about DIY has given me hope. So if I go by your original post, I can replace the deglazer with regular nail polish remover acetone and instead of the tankote/resolene you say to finish with lederbalsam. Is the belvoir one ok (the one in the orange tin) or do I specifically need the Passier? Then is my understanding correct that I should do 2 coats of dye with LOTS of buffing and dry time. Then once the buffing has no more dye lift, then apply a thick coat of lederbalsam and BUFF! and do this 3 times? Should I allow it to dry over night between coats of lederbalsam? Thanks so much!!!


  11. Just checking in, how has your saddle held up without a sealant?
    If someone was going to re-dye then seal with resolen would you advice using some leather balm before sealing since it doesn’t accept it after?


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